How Do I Apply Eye Makeup Based on my Eye Shape?

Stylist applying eyeshadow

From the makeup counters to the YouTube videos, everyone has an opinion about choosing eye makeup colors based on eye color.  It is typically the opposite shades on the color wheel, for example, peach and copper can bring out the blue in hazel eyes.  However, when we apply the chosen colors, did you know that the shape of your application should be determined by the shape of your eye?

  • The most common eye shape is almond. “Upturned” eyes, with a natural lift on the outer corner, are a variety of this particular shape.  “Downturned” eyes are similar, with a natural dropping on the outer corner.  One of the best ways to emphasize and make the most of this eye shape is to counteract such angle by applying the darker color opposite the lift or the drop.
  • If you have deep set or hooded eyes (like me), they are typically larger and set back into the socket with a noticeable brow ridge and a nearly invisible crease. The main thing to point out for this eye shape is to avoid highlighting the brow.  Since highlighting emphasizes an area, this will make the eyes appear more deep set.  The lighter shades should be used on the lid with the crease color slightly higher on the brow.  Heavy eyeliner should be avoided so as not to create additional shadowing.
  • Close set or wide set eyes are related to the space between the eyes. Close set means there is less than one eyeball of space between them and wide set means there is more than one eyeball of space.  To balance wide-set eyes, apply your color a little darker to the inner eye.  To visually balance close-set eyes, highlight that inner corner area.

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